On a May morning, The brown birds are loud in the pines And the first cool breath of summer Touches the rose petals. Just for a moment, All together, the planets sing. |
As summertime arrives, Hawaii is a favorite tourist destination for vacationers from throughout the Americas and Asia. Now that the Covid scare is over, 9.8 million visitors are expected to arrive in Hawaii this year. During the next three years, that number is predicted to rise to 10 million. From the windows of our condo in downtown Honolulu, we witness at least thirty large airplanes a day arriving or leaving the island of Oahu, and early in the mornings around dawn, the huge cruise ships arrive.
Most of the tourists who arrive here will stay in the Waikiki neighborhood, long famous for its gorgeous beach, elegant hotels, high-end shopping and fabulous local food. This decision is reasonable, as Waikiki has made itself a visitor-friendly destination with everything a tourist could want within walking distance of dozens of conveniently located hotels. The beautiful beach, a legendary hangout for surfers, is well-supervised by competent lifeguards perched in their lookout towers, and surfing lessons and swimming and snorkeling gear are readily available, along with booths selling tickets to sunset cocktail cruises in charming catamarans.
Hawaii’s oldest hotel, the Moana Surfrider, (2365 Kalakaua Avenue, Honolulu, 1-808-922-3111,) still reigns supreme on Waikiki Beach, and still serves High Tea on the Veranda on Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 11:30-2:303. They also have a charming Keiki Tea for children. This glorious Victorian beauty opened in 1901, and now a Westin Resort and Spa, it has been elegantly maintained over the decades.
Another Waikiki Beach treasure is the Halekulani Hotel, quietly hidden away from the hustle and bustle. (2199 Kalia Road, Honolulu, 1-808-923-2311) In my opinion, the Halekulani is the best hotel in Hawaii, and one of the finest hotels in the world. Established in 1917 as a set of beach bungalows located on the site of an ancient Hawaiian settlement, Halekulani is now a modern hotel and spa under Japanese management and maintains the highest standards of elegance and serenity characteristic of Japanese hospitality. The award-winning La Mer, the best French restaurant in Hawaii, is located at Halekulani, directly overlooking Waikiki Beach. The Orchids Restaurant at Halekulani offers a breathtaking Sunday Brunch from 9-2:30 that melds the best of Western, Hawaiian and Japanese cuisine. And the Veranda Restaurant, overlooking the Garden Courtyard, serves a stunning Afternoon Tea from 2-5 PM, Tuesday through Saturday. If you happen to be one of the ten million visitors who come to Waikiki each year, and you want to give yourself a special treat, Halekulani is the place, but be advised that this quiet and dignified hotel has a dress code. Do not even think about showing up in a tank top for Afternoon Tea! And you will need reservations well in advance for any of the other elegant events at Halekulani.
For more casual and family-oriented adventures, Waikiki has a small but charming zoo with animals that are well cared for in a tropical garden setting. The Honolulu Zoo is located in Queen Kapiolani Park on the Diamond Head side of Waikiki. The 1,230 birds and land animals who live at the zoo appear to be thriving in their specially designed habitats. If you take the family to the zoo, be sure to stop at the snack bar for a refreshing Dole Whip, a pineapple flavored soft serve ice cream popular in Hawaii for decades. The resident peacock might be wandering around to greet you.
The Waikiki Aquarium, the second oldest aquarium in America, is very close to the zoo, and can be reached by walking from any place in the Waikiki neighborhood. Established in 1904, the Aquarium is now managed by The University of Hawaii Manoa and features over 3,500 marine fish and animals in indoor and outdoor habitats. The exhibits and research focus on understanding, appreciating and conserving Pacific marine wildlife. The Aquarium has a strong educational component with excellent docents and hands-on exhibits that actually encourage children to touch some of the living specimens. There is also a kid-friendly gift shop at the Aquarium.
As I have pointed out, Waikiki is a visitors’ wonderland, and many of the tourists who stay there never leave the neighborhood. This fact makes me a bit sad, as Honolulu is a large cosmopolitan city with many unique neighborhoods that have their own charm and their own cuisine. I happen to live in a downtown neighborhood called Kakaako, an easy bus ride from Waikiki. Kakaako is located along Ala Moana Boulevard facing Ala Moana Beach Park and the ocean. Our neighborhood is squeezed between the massive Ala Moana Shopping Center and the slightly smaller Ward Village, with active construction of new parks and condos going on all around us. Although Kakaako is an old residential neighborhood, with traditional breakfast and lunch cafes serving local Hawaiian style and Asian immigrant meals, it has recently become a trendy destination for new restaurants, coffee and tea shops and businesses. We even have a Whole Foods in our neighborhood!
I encourage visitors to branch out a bit and try eating in some of the special spots in Kakaako and the surrounding neighborhoods that might not show up in every tourist guidebook but can offer you a delicious breakfast in an interesting setting, either traditional or trendy. Here are a few hidden gems that Wayne and I have visited more than once because we enjoy the food and the local ambience.
Harry’s Café
(1101 Waimanu Street, Honolulu, 1-808-593-7798)
Harry’s Café is an old time Hawaiian style diner with a slight Korean accent. The menu is heavy on meat, including Spam and Vienna Sausage, still popular decades after these military provisions were introduced to the Pacific islands during the Second World War. Entering Harry’s Café, a couple of blocks from our condo, feels like walking into a 1950s movie. The eight tables, all covered with red and white checked tablecloths, are often filled by 6 AM, when Harry’s opens, if indeed they decide to open at all on any given day. The only frills in this bare-bones, nothing extra breakfast and lunch joint are the little bouquets of fresh flowers on each table, usually occupied during the week by construction workers in their neon green tee shirts having breakfast, then ordering lunch for takeout before they get to work on the nearby new condos, moving upward toward the clouds. These guys are at Harry’s to eat Hawaii’s favorite breakfast—Loco Moco, a plate of white rice topped with a hamburger patty and a fried egg, all drowned in brown gravy. Kim Chee Fried Rice, often topped with a pork chop, is another popular breakfast item at Harry’s, and Portuguese Sausage is available with every meal. Almost everything at Harry’s includes fried meat, but basic buttermilk pancakes, and a competently cooked fresh spinach, mushroom and cheese omelet are also on the menu. Hamburgers, available with Kim Chee, are the primary lunch item, along with old-style beef stew and beef pot roast. Trendy Asian Fusion is nowhere to be found at Harry’s, but you can always get coffee; just don’t ask for a cappuccino.
Tango Contemporary Café
(1288 Ala Moana Boulevard, #120, Honolulu, 1-808-593-7288)
In contrast to Harry’s, Tango Contemporary Cafe, located nearby in Kakaako, calls itself a Gourmet Bistro and serves Scandinavian, Asian and Pacific Rim, Hawaiian and Mainland American Food. It’s a pleasant little place with indoor and outdoor dining. People in the neighborhood often bring their dogs along for breakfast, and the canines sit politely under the well-shaded outdoor tables. We like the food at Tango, but potential clients should check Tango’s website to discern when the menus may change between Breakfast, (Monday through Friday 7-10 AM,) Brunch, (Saturday and Sunday, 8 AM-2 PM,) Lunch and Dinner, which apparently always ends at 8 PM. Tango’s breakfast menu starts out with a decidedly European nuance, with Danish of the Day, Berry Compote, Muesli and Yogurt, Florentine Benedict, and Shredded Duck Confit Hash. Crab Hash and Salmon Benedicts are also available for breakfast as is a Half Papaya with Lime. And in a nod to old Hawaii, Tango serves the decidedly updated Braised Beef Loco Moco with Crispy Onions. Dessert, including Kona Coffee Ice Cream Cake and Affogato, is served all day every day, and you can definitely get a Cappuccino at Tango.
Guieb Café
(1311 N. King Street, Suite F06, Honolulu, 1-808-913-2131)
Guieb Café is our favorite new place for breakfast. It’s located in the Kalihi neighborhood of Honolulu in what appears to be an alley within a tiny shopping center elegantly named Kapalama Shopping Plaza, housing a little string of locally owned restaurants. Guieb Café is a popular bustling place run by a group of young, friendly and innovative Filipino Americans who have developed an exciting menu incorporating both native Hawaiian produce and food preparations and traditional Filipino favorites. The pancakes and waffles at Guieb Café seem to be very popular with the clients who live in the neighborhood, and the choices include colorful Ube (purple yam) and Mascarpone Pancakes and Poi Mochi Waffles with Haupia (coconut) Sauce. Fried Chicken and Waffles are also on the breakfast menu along with Crab Cake Benedict and Bao Bun Benedict, featuring a Chinese style cha shu pork belly-filled bun. Filipino breakfast options include Bangsilog, fried boneless milkfish with garlic fried rice and eggs as well as Adobo Fried Rice Omelet. The skillful chefs at Guieb have gone over the top in updating good old Hawaiian Loco Moco into Loco Moco with Prime Rib or with a Wagyu Beef Patty and Crab Cake. A Lobster Sensation Roll is also available at Guieb.
While we were in Waipahu, about thirteen miles west of Honolulu, we stopped at Seafood City Supermarket in the Waipahu Town Center (90-050 Farrington Highway.) This enormous market, complete with all the produce needed for Filipino home cooking, an expansive fresh fish and meat department and a deli with an impressive variety of prepared Filipino food, is the go-to destination for Filipino cuisine aficionados throughout Oahu. Two Filipino bakeries, Red Ribbon Bakeshop (1-808-691-9848) and Valerio’s Tropical Bakeshop are also located within the supermarket, along with Magnolia Ice Cream & Treats, where the famous Filipino dessert, Halo Halo, made with Ube ice cream, is available along with numerous other Asian-derived ice cream creations. Red Ribbon Bakery is famous for its gorgeous purple Ube Chiffon Cake, as well as pandesal, ensaymadas and other luscious freshly baked Filipino breads and pastries. We picked up several pastries while we were there and feasted at breakfast for several days.
For those of you who are interested in learning more about the Asian purple yam known as Ube, I am happy to share the recipe for Ube Muffins, perfect for a Mother’s Day brunch or Afternoon Tea, at the end of this blog. But before we get to the recipe, I would like to introduce you to two local breakfast and lunch destinations that not only serve good fresh food, but also serve the people of Oahu with important social commitments that have brought healing to our community for decades.
(2950 Manoa Road, Honolulu, 1-808-744-1619)
In the lovely old Manoa neighborhood of Honolulu, where the University of Hawaii is located, Waioli Kitchen and Bake Shop, previously known as Waioli Tea Room, has been “on a mission” for more than a hundred years. Managed by The Salvation Army, the original tearoom supported vocational training for the orphaned girls who were housed at the Salvation Army Girls’ Home. Social needs have changed over the decades, and today The Waioli Kitchen and Bake Shop supports the Salvation Army’s services to provide treatment for “individuals suffering with substance abuse disorders or recently released from incarceration.”
Still housed in the beautiful old tearoom, surrounded by mature tropical trees in a shady garden setting, Waioli Kitchen is a popular spot enthusiastically supported by the local Manoa community, and the food is fresh, healthy and delicious. The small breakfast menu includes Acai Bowl (acai, honey, fresh fruit and house made granola,) Banana Macadamia Nut Pancakes with homemade Coconut Syrup, available with Bacon and a Breakfast Sandwich of Scrambled Eggs and Cheddar Cheese with Grilled Tomato on a Freshly Baked Croissant. Other fresh baked goods, including brownies and cookies, can be purchased at the counter when you place your order. And yes, the Waoli Kitchen serves an excellent Short Rib Loco Moco.
(86-660 Lualualei Homestead Road, Waianae 1-808-696-8844, closed Tuesday)
If you’re up for a good old fashioned road trip for a worthy cause, head for the town of Waianae on the leeward (western) side of Oahu. The Kahumana Organic Farm and Café, thirty-three miles from Honolulu and two miles inland from the beach, is an authentic farm to table breakfast and lunchroom with the freshest food imaginable, grown on the farm surrounding the café. The café is open from 10-2:30 for late breakfast and lunch and from 9 AM-1 PM for Saturday Brunch. The farm is closed on Mondays. The food is simple yet delicious, making no pretenses toward gourmet cuisine. The lunch menu includes Macadamia Nut Pesto Pasta, Coconut Dal Lentil Curry and Tofu Vegetable Stir-fry. Each entre comes with fresh vegetable soup or salad straight out of the garden. Fresh fish of the day, chicken or tofu can be added to each meal, and duck eggs are available. Guests can also order an appetizer of Goat Cheese and Herb Hummus with Pita Bread, and for dessert, Banana Bread, Chocolate Brownie or Lilikoi (Passion Fruit) Cheesecake. The Saturday Brunch menu adds Banana Bread French Toast with Coconut Cream and Banana Crepes with various fillings. Portuguese Sausage and Chorizo can be ordered with the omelets and egg dishes.
Kahumana Organic Farms produces fruits and vegetables that are sold throughout the island and served at some of the best restaurants. Visitors are welcome to wander around the farm and admire the gorgeous mango and other trees, birds and butterflies in an utterly natural setting.
Since 1989, Kahumana Farm’s mission has been to combat homelessness on Oahu, especially in the Leeward Coast area. Since then, the farm has provided housing and employment for 100 families each year. In addition, the farm helps support the Leeward Learning Center in Waianae. Kahumana’s Adult Day Health Program offers opportunities and activities for adults with developmental and intellectual disabilities and autism. Not every tourist at Waikiki is aware of the meaningful work that the Waioli Kitchen and Bake Shop and Kahumana Organic Farms are doing to improve the quality of life for all the residents of Hawaii along with the delicious food they produce for our enjoyment. I hope some of our readers will remember these two breakfast and lunch spots if they choose to vacation on the beautiful island of Oahu.
Ube (Purple Yam) Muffins
Ube, which means “tuber” in Tagalog, is a popular ingredient in Filipino desserts. Ube is a bright purple yam, often confused with taro and Okinawan sweet potatoes, which are also nutritious purple tubers. The ube is packed with healthy carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, fiber and antioxidants. Ube often appears in Filipino treats such as flan, cheesecake, cakes, breads, ensaymadas and ice cream. Bright purple Ube Ice Cream, irresistible to children and fun-loving adults, is definitely here to stay! I hope you will enjoy this easy Ube Muffins recipe, which I adapted from a recipe by Catalina Castravet which I found online. Ubes are easy to find in Hawaiian grocery stores, but if you can’t find them in your neighborhood, try Whole Foods. If ube is simply not available where you live, use good old Sweet Potatoes. Your muffins won’t be purple, but they will be orange and delicious! Both the topping and the glaze are optional, but I used the almond and brown sugar topping for the muffins and the glaze with decorative sprinkles for the mini-Bundt cakes.
- 3-4 purple yams, (ubes) about 2 cups boiled, cooled and mashed
- 2 large eggs, at room temperature
- 1 cup white sugar
- ½ cup canola or olive oil
- ½ cup whole milk or cream at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
- 1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
- 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
- ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
- 2 teaspoons baking powder
- ½ teaspoon salt
- ½ cup chopped toasted macadamia nuts and or sweetened toasted coconut flakes
- Butter if serving the muffins warm
For the Muffin Topping:
- 3 tablespoons brown sugar
- ¼ cup chopped toasted macadamia nuts
- 1 cup powdered sugar
- 2 tablespoons whole milk, cream or coconut milk
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Makes: 12 muffins and 12 mini-Bundt cakes
Preheat Oven To: 400 degrees F
- Fill a sauce pan half full of water and bring it to a boil. Add the yams and boil for 15-20 minutes or longer until the yams are soft in the center. (Insert a paring knife to discern if the yams are cooked.) Remove from the stove, pour out the hot water, and rinse the yams under cold water until they are cool enough to peel. Peel the yams and mash them with a large fork or a potato masher until they are smooth. Set aside to cool.
- Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Prepare the muffin pan by spraying all 12 wells with cooking spray with flour or adding paper muffin pan liners. Use the same procedure for the mini-Bundt pan, which will not require paper liners. In a medium sized bowl, sift the dry ingredients, including the spices together and set aside. Place the eggs, sugar and oil in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric mixer until well combined. Add the milk and vanilla and beat on low speed until just combined.
- Add about 2 cups of the mashed ube to the egg mixture and beat just until blended. Fold in the flour mixture with a rubber spatula until no flour is visible. Fold in the nuts and or coconut until evenly distributed. Use an ice cream scoop to place the batter into the prepared muffin cups, filling each ¾ full. If using the topping, combine the brown sugar and chopped nuts and sprinkle evenly over all 12 muffin cups.
- Bake for 20-25 minutes, testing the center of a muffin with a bamboo skewer for doneness after 20 minutes. The muffins are done when only a few moist crumbs adhere to the skewer, but not liquid batter. Remove the muffins from the oven and cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes. Serve warm with butter. Use the remaining batter to bake the mini-Bundt cakes without the topping.
- Cool the mini-Bundt cakes in the pan for 10 minutes; then remove them and let them cool to room temperature. Mix the glaze ingredients together until the icing reaches a thick pouring consistency, adjusting the amount of powdered sugar or milk as needed. Using a large spoon, drizzle the glaze over each mini-cake. Decorate with colored sprinkles or additional chopped nuts and toasted coconut as you wish. Serve on a decorative platter, cake pedestal or two-tiered server.